INSTALLMENT
#9
[Days 14 & 15 - Friday & Sat., July 7 & 8, 2000]
Peg & Keith
Wheeler's Norway trip report, Summer 2000
See Photo Albums #19,
#20, & #21.
Walk
around Slogvik
Farm -
restored mill, lake, visit at Laura's, fjord fishing - and
Visiting Nordre Askeland Cousins - Handicraft Cooperative,
Skjoldastraumen.
Einar
had to go to work on his project with his excavator. This was Rotraud's
"day off" - or was it ours?
She insisted that she must have a day to spread manure on the fields. She and Einar were scheduled to "go on
holiday" the following Tuesday, the same day we were leaving, and this was
a "must do" chore before she could get away for their trip. They planned to go to the north of Norway
one way on the cruise ferry and to drive back home afterward ("for as long
as the money held out"). They keep
a holiday fund to which they contribute during the year and then travel as far
as it allows when the time comes. Two
years ago they were able to come to America and traveled from Seattle to Mt.
Rushmore.
Keith
had been studying the map of the
Slogvik farm and near environs, especially that which used to be part of the
original place. Einar had furnished
maps and other detailed information.
According to the always handy Tysvær local history book, volume 2, the
name of this farm used to be "Slokevik" in older times (up to
1661). It has also been spelled
"Slogvig." More recently it
is written "Slogvik." They
think this name comes from the Norwegian word "slok," meaning
millrace, and "vik," meaning cove.
This does not mean that there was a millrace here originally, but the
landscape appeared to be shaped like a millrace. Also, down by the old farmyard, in today's "bruk" (or
farm) number 7 that Einar owns, there is a valley or an indentation and below
this lies a beautiful inlet or cove.
According to the book, archeological finds indicate that the area of the
Slogvik farms had been occupied as long as 4,000 years ago. Records indicate that 6 people lived on the
farm in 1664, 17 in 1801, and 26 in 1865.
By the end of the 19th century there were only 15 in Slogvik as people
had moved out to other cities and communities and the immigration to America
had taken its toll on the area's population.
The
original Slogvik farm was quite large.
The original farm was about 550 acres (2200 mål/dekar) and included a
couple of small islands in the fjord.
After Keith's ancestor Jacob left in 1825, his brother Knut and later
his sister Malene emigrated to America.
Another sister, Inger, inherited the farm but she married and moved away
and so she sold to Jacob's youngest brother Anders in 1842. Now he was the Quaker who stayed
behind. He and his wife had no children
and in 1890, when he was 78, he gave the farm to the Quakers in Stavanger. The Quakers rented it out until they sold it
to Einar's grandfather in 1900.
As was the case with practically all farms in
Norway, the original farm was broken down into subfarms (or "bruks")
usually as the size of the family increased.
Keep in mind that this is beautiful but very rugged, rocky country. Very little land could be put into regular
agricultural cultivation. Einar gave me
a color coded map of the farm he current owns (Bruk 7) which is about 92 acres
in size, however there were only 6 small parcels that were coded for
"cultivation" (a little less than 5 acres or 19 "mål
dyrka"), with a larger area of about 10 acres marked for
"grazing" or pasture (this "beite" area can be
fertilized). A section is also marked
for forest or "skog" (almost 13 acres). In addition to some small ponds, some of this land is covered
with the very beautiful Slogvikvatnet or lake.
The rest is rocky, mountainous, swampy, or covered with heather and wild
grasses.
< Lake Slogvik
The
cultivated land is used mostly for growing grass for silage. They have several head of beef cattle and a
herd of sheep. Some other parts of the
original farm are owned by Einar's Slogvik cousins; some parts are now owned by
others. Einar's home on bruk 7 is where
the original farm house was located in Jacob's time. This original house was moved south to bruk 1 by Jacob's brother
Anders and this bruk is now owned by Einar's first cousin Kåre.
Anyway,
we struck off by walking with PC, the dog, around a lower field not far from
the quay. It had already been manured
-- Rotraud had been up earlier than us
-- the smell was richly farm-like.
We were looking for an old "dam site." We think we found some old rock remnants,
but they looked nothing like a dam.
Walking across the highway and up the hill, we came to the old
"husmmans plass." This is
best defined as a cotter or tenant farmer's place from earlier times. Here there now was a small cabin that was
currently in use as a vacation cabin and as someone was there, we did not go
too close. Near this cabin could be
seen the remnants of much older structures (probably the original house and
farm buildings).
Walking
down the hill along the highway to the north, we spotted the old Slogvik mill that
is listed as a historical site by the Tysvær kulture center. There were trails down to and around it as
if school children had frequented it.
More probably there are just a lot of local folks who enjoy checking out
their own local history and the many Norwegians that come out of the cities to
vacation in this area. Whoever the
former visitors, they had left the place in pleasant condition. There was no litter or defacement; this made
it rather nice. We sat awhile before we
followed the stream up to the lake.
It
was on this walk that Peg became aware of just how much heather there is all OVER the countryside. There were several varieties in bloom and
it made for interesting walking.
Remember that she works hard at home trying to keep a few small patches
of heather alive. At first we avoided
stepping on the heather especially, but eventually it became a matter of that
being the best stepping grounds of all because to step elsewhere meant possible
boggy wet areas. It brought new meaning
to the stories of travelers making their beds in the heather. It was vast and springy, soft and light, not
at all unlike a mattress.
It
was nearing the pre-arranged time to return to the farmhouse for lunch. Returning, we passed a field that Rotraud
had been spreading the liquid manure on, we noticed that the fiberglass manure
tank trailer had been tipped over. It
lay on its side and the tractor was missing.
We began to fear that she had been injured so after making sure she was
not in the wreck, we raced back to the house and learned that she was
okay. Despite the ominous nature of the
accident, she was not personally injured except for her pride. However the fiberglass was ripped at the
upper part of the tank and the trailer hitch was damaged somewhat. It could have been much worse. (Isn't that what is said of ALL accidents?)
A
very remarkable factor of this neighborhood was made evident by the manner in
which Rotraud was able to recover from this major catastrophe of a tipped and
broken piece of farm equipment. She had
already engaged the help of her neighbor (Einar's cousin Kåre) to finish the
spreading of her fields. He would be
repaid for his time (he had to take an afternoon out of his schedule -- not
always easy for a farmer) by a load of gravel he needed to have spread on his driveway. Einar would bring this in his dump truck
later. This was not the first incident
we saw while we were there of neighbors helping neighbors in this special
farming community. One must wonder if
all Norway is like this or was this a special neighborhood.
After
lunch, Peg sketched the fjord horizon from the front yard while Keith took
pictures and studied the books Einar had collected. When Rotraud returned from her ordeal and had showered, she took
a break while Peg did some more spinning on her wheel.
Peg spins while Rotraud and PC rest>
After
she was rested Rotraud got Peg started making "krum kake." These were thin, waffles that were wound on
a cone form while warm to make a kind of open ended cone that became crisp as
they cooled. Sweetened berry filled
whipped cream would be inserted just before eating -- a VERY delicious and
special dessert.
At
4:30 we were expected for coffee at the
home of Laura, Einar's mother. Einar had
come home early and in time to join us.
Laura is a recent widow and adjusting to that new role. She attends a senior citizen's group a couple
of times a week for cards and conversation.
She was dressed nicely and had prepared a nice spread of coffee and
cake. Edvard, her husband of 58 years
died just last April rather suddenly.
It was both a surprise and an honor to learn the interest he had in the
descendants of the emigrants from this area.
Apparently Edvard, Einar's father, was particularly looking forward to
our visit. We were told he would study
the photos of Keith to see if he could detect any family resemblance. We were sad that we missed him.
As
Laura spoke no English, Rotraud translated for us. We took her almonds from cousin Emma, a calendar with pictures of
the Redwoods, and an American flag. She
talked a great deal about her 5 children (4 daughters and Einar). While we were there, one of her grandson's,
Erik Halleland, came to visit with his girlfriend, Anna, and his 4 year old
daughter. Anna was a teacher -- more
"teacher talk." She taught 2nd
grade.
After
a late dinner, while Keith studied more books, Peg went fishing with Terje and Ellen. They rowed the family motor boat (sans motor) a short distance
from shore and cast in a few lines. No
fishing license is required on the fjord.
Terje caught something right away and Ellen caught even more in short
order. Peg caught one, but truth to
tell was more interested in just being on the water and photographing the 11:30
twilight. Terje sure knows where the
fish bite and was very interested in having Peg catch something. He also did the cleaning of the entire catch
which was put in the freezer for family use.
Another late night.
Day 15,
July 8, Saturday - Askeland cousins
Thinking
we heard folks up and about, Peg and Keith got up but there was no one about
after all. We read until the rest
joined us. At 11:30 we left to drive
south toward fourth cousin Ingrid's house for luncheon. We stopped by the Tysvær Kommune Handicraft Cooperative to support the local
handcraft folks. Peg found a unique
sweater and we purchased a few things for the house and family. Keith bought a "NH" ("Norges
Husflidslag" or Norwegian Handicrafts) lapel pin that he proudly wore the
rest of the trip.
Arriving
at Ingrid's was a treat for the eyes.
She appeared at the door of her home in full "bunad," the
national costume worn on holidays and other special occasions.
<
Keith's 4th cousin
Ingrid Torbjørndatter Askeland/Austrheim >
Ingrid
welcomed us into her beautiful home. She
had prepared a lovely meal and we enjoyed the conversation and getting a little
more acquainted with her. She has been
a widow since her husband Osmund died in 1985.
They had no children but she has kept busy as she has done
administrative work for Tysvær Kommune for many years. She proudly showed us the award she received
for such work from the organization for kommune governments. She also gave both of us lapel pins with the
heron logo of the Tysvær Kommune. She
also presented a gift from Reidar Pedersen, the Tysvær Mayor, which was a book 
about a Norwegian policeman,
originally from Haugesund, who rode horseback across the US. Afterwards we were
all treated to her talented piano playing on her beautiful grand piano. She had an English hymn book and we found
ourselves singing Keith's mom's favorite, "Old Rugged Cross," and
Peg's mom's favorite, "He Walks with Me and He Talks with Me." That sure brought back memories. We were extra surprised to learn that Einar
plays the piano too. He played some too
that afternoon. This man has no end of
talents. How many ex-teacher,
farmer/excavator operators do you know that play the piano and paint fine works
of art? (He is pretty good at
genealogical research too.)
< Einar
plays --- Edvard Grieg would be envious.
It
was then time to journey up the road to the modern and spacious home of another
4th cousin Jostein Askeland and his wife Nina.
In a Nordre
Askeland home -
Left to right: Jostein, Keith, Nina, Inger Marie & Kåre Olsen, Johanna, Rotraud, Einar, Knut. >
This
delightful couple has siblings and other relatives in the US, have visited the
US on several occasions and speak excellent English. They had gone so far as to fly the American flag from their
flagpole in our honor. What a heartwarming
sight that was to see the flag waving in a beautiful blue cloudless summer
Saturday sky. Jostein's 86 year old
father Knut (Keith's 3rd cousin once removed) and his wife Johanna,
as well as Jostein's sister, Inga Marie, and her husband were there to greet
us. Nina and Jostein have four sons all of whom were away on various
outings. Introductions all around and
we were invited to the traditional and very lovely spread of foods beginning
with open faced sandwiches and ending with scrumptious cakes. Rumor had it Jostein, himself had made the
cheesecake. They also had some
delicious raspberry punch from their garden's berries. Yes, we had just eaten at Ingrid's, but this
is what you do when you have callers.
So, if it is an afternoon of calling, it is an afternoon of beautiful
rich food. (Dieting is for the rest of
life.)
We
then adjourned to their nice deck to enjoy the sun and fine views. Peg ended up talking to Inger Marie and her
husband Kåre who live south of Stavanger in Sandnes. Kåre is a high school principal, and when Peg
"jokingly" asked if he ever needed an English teacher, he offered her
a job on the spot. Peg isn't sure how
serious he was with this offer, but it sure started her thinking about this
possibility.
<
Keith with 4th cousins Jostein & Inger Marie and 3rd cousin-once-removed Knut
Askeland.
US flag appropriately flying below the Norwegian
banner. >
Before
leaving this family we walked a short distance down the lane to Knut and
Johanna's pleasant older home where we were invited in for one last cup of
coffee and more warm Norwegian hospitality.
Nina,
having learned that we were interested in sweaters to buy for ourselves and
family as the customary symbolizing souvenir of Norway, but not the typical
"run of the mill" type, called a lady she knew who made them at
home. We stopped there on our way back
to Slogvik. She had just recently sold
several to German tourists and her selection of big sizes was down, but we
found two we liked that fit Keith. The
prices were excellent, but since we had had to borrow from Einar's travel fund
stash, we still had to go back via Aksdal to buy more kroners. We marveled again at how easy it was to find
an ATM and to simply put in our card and the cute little machine was able to
check our bank in Eureka, know we had sufficient funds, and cough out the cash
in kroners in mere seconds. (Here are
some interesting on-line photos of Aksdal: http://home.online.no/~eihustve/ht990602.htm
& http://home.online.no/~eihustve/ht9810ad.htm )
On
the way back, we passed the turn off to
Slogvik and continued east a short distance to a place called Skjoldastraumen. Here just past a quaint old church was a
unique feature on the fjord. This was
Norway's only saltwater "sluice" (boat lock) dating from 1908 and is
still in use for pleasure boats. This
is required because of a rather unusual feature here. Here the fjord is very narrow; actually it is where two fjords,
Hervikfjord and Skjoldafjord, meet in a narrow channel. Tidal action can cause periodic strong
currents that make it impossible or dangerous for boat traffic. This old single lock solves the problem.
We
had parked the car across the adjacent bridge and walked back to look over the
lock and the old rotating bridge that is no longer in use. Rotraud proudly pointed out the interpretive
sign that she had translated. On the
way back to the car, we stopped at a small convenience store and here we were
able to find copies of the Stavanger Aftenblad for July 5th
with the article and photos of Keith and his cousin. (See our "Newspaper
Articles" page.)
Back
at the Slogvik's it was time to rest and organize our lives a bit. One evening, maybe this one, Rotraud's son
Terje returned from an appointment in Haugesund. He had had two supplemental missions:
1.
To
pick up a book Rotraud had ordered for Peg.
She had been absolutely sure that Peg would like this long time favorite
book. It was Growth of the Soil by Knut Hamsun, a classic in European
lit. It had been recommended to Peg by
her CSU professor once, but she had not read it at that time. It was time to read it apparently. Keith had read it and loved it. She has since read it and enjoyed it
immensely. A really good read, and
doubly so for having been in Norway and been a homesteader herself once.
2.
To
take Keith's AAA auto card in order to obtain a "NAF Veibok." NAF is AAA's international affiliate in Norway. The Veibok is a sturdy paperback book that
has a series of maps and tour guide pages that cover the whole country. Of course it is all in Norwegian, but for
"map freak" Keith it was a great treasure and a valuable future
resource. We are sure there was some
charge for this book, but Terje would not tell how much, nor would he accept
reimbursement.
See Photo Albums #19,
#20, & #21.
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