DAY 2 PM (Thurs., Aug. 11)

    After lunch we drive to the Garden of Gethsemane. This has to be one of the loveliest spots in all Jerusalem. It is merely a small rectangular area with eight ancient olive trees, acclaimed by some to be 3,000 years old and thus possibly the very trees that stood in the garden during the trying times of Christ. Their thick, gnarled, and twisted trunks attest to a venerable age. And they still bear fruit. It was among these very trees it is believed that the disciples were found asleep on the three occasions when Jesus told them to watch and pray. This consecrated garden is extremely well kept with green shrubs and flowers of brilliant color to add to the rustic beauty of the trees. A wall protects this area on two sides while the Church of All Nations (also known as the Basilica of the Agony) guards the remaining two sides. This impressive and colorful church was built relatively recently with the funds coming from the Christian people of several nations (U.S. being one), hence the name. Housed within its noble sanctuary is the actual rock, on which Christ reputedly sweats great drops of blood while offering his last prayers. It was here too that Judas betrayed him. With only the top of the rock rising above the polished marble floor, the naturalness of the setting had been lost. Still, with the deep purple rays streaming down from the stained glass windows filling the spaciousness of the chapel with a subdued regal light, the feeling of reverence and holy respect is tangible.

    Leaving the church by way of the garden, we walk down to the Tomb of the Virgin Mary. This is now a dark, underground church for the Greek and Armenian faiths. This is not considered holy ground by the Roman Catholics for they believe Mary was buried somewhere north, in Turkey. I never find out where the Protestants believe she was buried.

    Out the front door of the tomb and a short distance back into the mountain, we find ourselves in an unusual cave, which actually is the true or original Gethsemane, as the word "Gethsemane" in Hebrew means "Olive Oil Press." This cave many years ago was used for just that pur­pose. We can still see the trough cut in the rock flooring that carried the valuable olive oil across from the press and down to the bottling chambers below. So, it was from the activities of these chambers that the olive grove and garden above us got its famous name.

    From here we start our pleasant and picturesque drive to Beth­lehem. The road we take is fairly new, as the old Bethlehem road passes through Israeli territory, so naturally cannot be used. Just south of Jerusalem we pass through the Valley of Gehenna (Arabic mean­ing 'hell') or the "Field of Blood." It was here that the chief priests bought the potter's field in which to bury strangers — they paid for this land with the thirty pieces of silver they had given to Judas for the betrayal. Also, it was in this valley where it is believed Judas hung himself,

    We continue on over the nearly barren, rolling, hills, passing small farm houses, past herds of sheep and goats, attended by a colorful shepherds, past the cave-dotted canyons and on past the Tomb of Rachel.

    Nearing Bethlehem, we stop beside the road. From here, we have a sweeping view of the whole area. The panorama includes the grapevine-cover­ed "Field of Boaz," the "Shepherds Field" (where the angels appeared to the shepherds), a small village where the shepherds lived, and a beautiful view of the now thriving city of Bethlehem with its famous bell towers standing sedately high against the skyline. We also see the gigantic neon star mounted above the Church of Nativity. This star lights the birthplace at Christmastime.

    Driving on into the city, we stop the cars in front of the huge, stone Church of Nativity. The present church was built essentially by the Emperor Justinian in the 6th century. It stands upon the traditional site of Jesus' birth. As we walk across the courtyard we come to a very small hole in the building. This, amazingly enough, is the main entrance. We are told that the original door was filled in, leaving only this small aperture, designed to keep people from bringing their horses and donkeys into the church. As we stoop and entered the church, I am immediately impressed by the great age that was apparent on the inside. The sanctuary, itself, is built in the form of a cross, and, as this is a church serving Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, and Armenians, at the head of the cross, there are areas for each of their services. It is interesting to learn that, due to different cal­endars, the Greeks and Armenians celebrate Christmas at different dates. The Greeks on 7 Jan and Armenians on 18 Jan. From here we walk down several, dark flights of stairs to the "Grotto of Nativity." This tra­ditional spot of Christ's birth is marked with a slab of beautifully veined marble, in the center of which is the silver star of Bethlehem. There is a hole in the star to permit pilgrims to kiss the original rock floor. Within just a few feet of the star is another ornate shrine which is believed to be the area of the manger. The richly colored and finely detailed tapestries, the marble pillars, and the religious hang­ing lanterns of gold and silver give these cramped and dimly-lit quarters an air of opulent adornment.

    Returning now to the level of the church, we enter the chapel of the Church of St Catherine. This adjoins the Church of Nativity but was built much later, sometime in the 19th century. It is here that the Roman Catholics now hold their services and it is here also that the famous Christmas Eve services are broadcast to the entire world.

    After leaving the church we have a few minutes to browse in the many shops that surround the area. Somehow, it just seems out of place to find the "Holy Manger Cafe" just across the street from these sacred churches.

    Leaving Bethlehem, we return to Jerusalem —— the sun is begin­ning to set, casting long graceful shadows over the picturesque valleys through which we had previously passed — it had been another fabulous and interesting day.

    This evening, being very tired from all our sight seeing, we limit ourselves to only a couple of hours of window shopping in the new city. Here there are many nice, comparatively new shops, and many of them stocked with the latest in European and U.S. goods. After re­turning to the hotel and taking a few minutes to write and send some postcards, I retire to my small but comfortable room for a good night’s sleep.